Side-by-Side Comparison
Trims & Care
Buttons vs. Fabric Weight
Comparing 2 standards across 14 specifications. 14 key differences identified.
Comparing:
Buttons
Fabric Weight
Button sizing is globally standardized using the French Ligne scale (symbol 'L'), where 1 Ligne equals exactly 0.635 mm (1/40 inch or 0.025 in). Sized from 14L (collar button-downs) and 18L (shirt plackets) to 32L (suit coat fronts) and 40L (overcoats), the scale determines standard buttonhole cutting lengths.
Fabric weight in Grams per Square Meter (GSM / g/m²) and imperial Ounces per Square Yard (oz/yd²) quantifies textile aerial mass under ASTM D3776. Combined with ISO 1144 linear yarn density in Denier and Tex, fabric weight benchmarks dictate garment drape, breathability, and durability.
Specification Comparison Table
14 Parameters| Parameter / Spec | ||
|---|---|---|
|
Governing Standards
|
ASTM D5171 / Traditional Ligne Standard | ASTM D3776 (GSM) / ISO 3801 / ISO 1144 (Denier/Tex) |
|
Base Unit Definition
|
1 Ligne (1L) = 0.635 mm = 1/40 inch (0.025") | — |
|
14L Shirt Collar / Gauntlet
|
8.89 mm (0.350") | Button-down collars and sleeve placket gauntlets | — |
|
16L Shirt Cuff
|
10.16 mm (0.400") | Dress shirt sleeve cuffs | — |
|
18L Standard Shirt Front
|
11.43 mm (0.450") | Dress shirt center front placket buttons | — |
|
24L Suit Sleeve
|
15.24 mm (0.600") | Tailored suit jacket sleeve cuffs and formal vests | — |
|
30L / 32L Suit Front
|
19.05 / 20.32 mm (0.75 / 0.80") | Suit jacket and blazer front closures | — |
|
40L Overcoat
|
25.40 mm (1.000") | Heavy trench coats, pea coats, and wool overcoats | — |
|
GSM to oz/yd² Conversion
|
— | 1 oz/yd² = 33.906 g/m² | GSM = oz/yd² × 33.906 | oz/yd² = GSM ÷ 33.906 |
|
Denier to Tex Conversion
|
— | Tex = Denier ÷ 9 | Denier = Tex × 9 |
|
Lightweight Apparel
|
— | <150 GSM (<4.4 oz) | Silk, chiffon, summer t-shirts (130–150 GSM) |
|
Mediumweight Apparel
|
— | 150–250 GSM (4.4–7.4 oz) | Heavy t-shirts (180–220 GSM), dress shirts, chinos |
|
Heavyweight Apparel
|
— | 250–350 GSM (7.4–10.3 oz) | Cotton hoodies (300–400 GSM), flannel, fleece |
|
Extra Heavy / Technical
|
— | >350 GSM (>10.3 oz) | Raw selvedge denim (12–16 oz), duck canvas (10–18 oz) |